Spirit Houses of Thailand: Small Places for Big Spirits

San Phra Phoom

You’ve been in Thailand for only a day, yet have seen dozens of small houses on pedestals outside of office buildings, markets, and private homes. Welcome to the world inhabited by the spirits displaced by the construction of the larger, adjacent building. In order that these spirits (“jao tee”) not occupy the newer construction, they are provided a place of their own, a “san phra phoom” made out of wood, concrete, or ceramic.

When possible, san phra phoom are placed in areas where the shadow of the larger construction doesn’t fall on it. Figures representing the reigning spirits made out of ceramic and plastic occupy the house, along with others representing animals, dancers, and servants. Daily donations of food, drink, incense, and flowers ensure that the spirits are happy and cared for, and thus will not be tempted to occupy the adjacent building. More than occasionally, occupants of the newer buildings as well as passers-by will wai (bow, with palms held together) the spirits.

For the westerner, be content to take a photograph, and enjoy looking at the beautiful and colorful spirit houses you’ll see virtually everywhere in Thailand. Picking up the figures, or in anyway otherwise disturbing anything on the platform upon which the spirit house sits, disturbs the jao tee, and represents the Bad Manner. One of the most famous, albeit hidden, san phra pooms is the Chao Mae Tupim Goddess Shrine, with its hundreds of carved, brightly-painted phalluses.