Sacred Protection: Sacred Objects and Practices

Amulets, icons, and tattoos are some of the many objects Thais use to protect themselves from misfortune. Virtually every Thai carries something on his or her person, visits a shrine on a regular basis, or has one at home. Popular shrines include san phra phoom spirit houses, Rama V shrines, and Nang Guak.

Nang Guak

Nang Guak, generally located near the main entrance to a business, are populated by good-luck charms, garlands of flowers, fruit, and non-alcoholic libations including water, milk, and cola. They contain a small statue in the form of a human, with the beckoning hand gesture used in Thailand, a flattened hand with fingers pointed in the down position, meant to bring patrons to the business, to ensure its success.

Sacred tattoos are often blessed by a temple abbot, and are considered to have supernatural powers. An auspicious day to acquire a tattoo is Thursday, and favorites include the kaw-yod, placed on the neck, or the images of ten Buddhas on the back. During the blessing phase, after the tattoo has been completed, the abbot touches the tattoo and chants a mantra, then forcefully kicks the recipient with the right leg, empowering the protective aspect.

Amulets include Buddha images worn from necklaces, small phallic symbols, and, for members of the military and police, tra-kut, bullet casings filled with 108 herbs, and blessed by a monk. Buddha-image amulets are purchased at, or near wats, and often bear inscriptions on the reverse, referring to a wat or sacred text.

Palad Khik Amulet

Phallic amulets, called palad khik (deputy penis) are often worn around the waist, or secluded in pockets, ward off spirits unfriendly to procreation. They are made of wood, bone, or ivory. When worn on or near the body, they are generally an inch or less in length. Women often carry them in purses, ostensibly to ward off purse-snatchers. Palad khik can be larger, and then can be as large as garden sculptures, and may include legs and other appendages.

In many of Bangkok’s go-go bars, the mamasan will ritually makes her rounds once each evening, tapping a larger palad khik twice on each table, ensuring good luck for the girls.

Chao Mae Tupim Goddess Shrine at Nai Lert Park

One of the more remarkable san phra poom installations in Bangkok can be found tucked behind the Swisshotel on Wireless Road.

Chao Mae Tupim Goddess Shrine

Tucked in the back of this much-exchanged hotel property, snuggled between Wireless Road and Khlong Saen Sap, is the amazing Chao Mae Tupim, a san phra phoom populated with thousands of phallic palad khik symbols of every construction, size and color. They’re all dedicated to the goddess Chao Mae Tupim. Here, in a pretty, small copse, are hundreds of phalluses, primarily made of wood, but also constructed of stone, concrete, and styrofoam, and often banded with every imaginable color. Incongruous to everything else there is a four-drawer file cabinet in this nice hidden-away spot.

Phalluses at the Shrine

The shrine was almost completely unknown until writer William Warren, who’d moved into an adjacent house, engaged in its restoration in 1963. We consider this shrine a “can’t miss” for those seeking the unusual, in the “City of Angels.”

To get there: Formerly the Hilton, this hotel has been known under at least four names, and can be found on the western side of Wireless Road, just south of Thanon Petchaburi. The shrine is almost impossible to find on your own, so visit the hotel lobby, and ask the concierge to direct you. Open all hours.
ThaiOasis GPS Coordinates: N13°44.987’ E100°32.791’